Brook House – the Infamous Demolition

 Brook House, Maison Dieu Road 1988. Dover Museum

Brook House, Maison Dieu Road 1988. Dover Museum

16 July 2013 marks the 25th anniversary of the demolition of Brook House – a fine, white, mansion that had stood on the western side of Maison Dieu Road. For many its destruction, in the early hours of a Saturday morning, marked the start of the deterioration of Dover that still carries on to this day.

For well over a hundred years, the site where Brook House once stood was part of the extensive Gunman estate that stretched from Maison House Gardens to Stembrook. George Jarvis, the last occupant, put the estate on the market in 1854 and moved to Lincolnshire. At the time, Dover’s sewerage system was being laid and the Corporation had hired London construction engineer, William Ernest  Moxon, as the principal contractor. He bought part of the estate in order to build his residence.

As the Dour was the west boundary, Moxon decided to build the house facing east and widened the then Charlton Back Lane, later Maison Dieu Road to making a fitting entrance. Along the south border of the part of the Gunman estate that he had purchased, he laid an egress into Biggin Street and the centre of Dover named by the Dover council, Pencester Road. This was after John de Pencester who had helped to defeat Louis, the Dauphin of France (1187-1226) – later Louis VII 1223-1226) on 24 August 1217 at the Battle of Dover.

Window in the Stone Hall, now the Maison Dieu, at the time erected Dover Town Hall, of a scene from the 1216 Battle of Dover and featuring John de Pencester. Alan Sencicle

Window in the Stone Hall, now the Maison Dieu, at the time erected Dover Town Hall, of a scene from the 1216 Battle of Dover and featuring John de Pencester. Alan Sencicle

Not long before, Dover council had purchased the Maison Dieu from the victualling department of the Royal Navy and voted for the building to be glorified as Dover’s Town Hall. Part of the restoration included large stained-glassed windows in the Stone Hall depicting aspects of Dover’s history. About 1850, Edward John Poynter (1836–1919), drew a series of cartoons for the insertion of coloured glass into the window frames in the Stone Hall one of which depicts John de Pencester at the 1216 Battle of Dover.

Moxon was a highly thought of engineer and was heavily involved in the creation of Dover’s water works, completed in 1854. He also won contracts from the military – works on the Western Heights to the tune of £90,000; in London – North Level sewer worth £100,000 and started on the building of St James new Church and houses along Pencester Road.

William Moxon's Brook House possessions sale 15 October 1861

William Moxon’s Brook House possessions sale 15 October 1861

However, with his engineering background and for reasons unclear, Moxon did not take into account that the site of his new mansion and the roads he had laid to it were on a flood plain of the river Dour. Every time there was heavy rain, there was much trouble in disposing of the surface water and although it is probable that Moxon was going to deal the problem, events intervened.

On 6 December 1860, Moxon announced that he was suspending all contracts and six days later, a meeting of his creditors took place. The civil engineer owed £89,000 including £37,000 to one single creditor. His company was wound up. Brook House was put on the market and the furnishings and paintings were sold at auction the following October. William Moxon died in Porsea on 9 December 1865.

Major-General Charles Ellice, Commandant of the South-Eastern District, purchased Brook House. Among his staff was a gardener, William Inwood, who came from Saltwood Castle. William was the grandfather of well-known Dovorian, Lillian Kay. After only a short time Major-General Ellice was moved to a new post and the House was again put up for sale.

 Lord Warden House formerly the Lord Warden Hotel

Lord Warden House formerly the Lord Warden Hotel

John Birmingham purchased Brook House for £5.010 on 3 October 1867. A well-known local in 1844 Birmingham had taken over the Ship Hotel, one of the most prestigious establishments in Dover. That year saw the South Eastern Railway Company opening their line to Dover and they built the Lord Warden Hotel for their cross Channel passengers. The Hotel opened on 7 September 1853 and Birmingham was appointed manager. By that time he had married and both he and his wife Mary were immortalised by Charles Dickens (1812-1870) in a number of the author’s letters.

Boundary stone in the wall of the now Pencester Road car-park put in by John Birmingham in 1868

Boundary stone in the wall of the now Pencester Road car-park put in by John Birmingham in 1868

A Conservative councillor for the Town Ward, Birmingham was elected an Alderman in 1858 and two years later, he was unanimously chosen as Mayor. Re-elected the following year, Birmingham provided the grand banquet for the installation of Lord Palmerston (1794-1865) as Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports. Birmingham stood for Mayor in 1867 but was beaten by fellow Tory, Joseph Churchward, albeit, he did buy Brook House. In 1868, Birmingham had a wall built along the southern boundary of his property. Part of this can still be seen as the back wall of Pencester Road car park where there is a plaque that Birmingham had put in place at that time. There is also a similar plaque built into the northern boundary of the estate but it is almost illegible.

Dover, Morris County, New Jersey, US - Iron Dogs

Dover, Morris County, New Jersey, US – Iron Dogs

Birmingham was elected Mayor for the third time in 1868 and again in 1869. During this time, Dover, Morris County, New Jersey, US, received town status and Mayor Birmingham organised a collection for the new Mayor, George Richards. From the money collected, Mayor Birmingham bought two white mastiff dogs and presented to the US town. Later, iron sculptures, about 4ft (1.1m) high, were made of the dogs and since then they have stood ‘guard’ over the town. (See Daughters of Dover, Dover Society web-site).

On Wednesday 3 February 1875, Birmingham died; he was 80 years old. The mansion remained in the possession of his family until August 1886, when Messrs Terson and Son sold it by auction for £6,000. John Finnis, head of the firm, Messrs Steriker Finnis and Son, timber merchants and builders, bought the property, which was on the opposite side of the River Dour from his timber yard. Finnis was elected a town councillor for Castle Ward from 1877 to 1883 and then, following the death of his father, Steriker Finnis, elected Alderman in his place. At about the same time, John Finnis was appointed a magistrate for both the Borough and the County.

Paddock - iron window frame made by Philip Stiff 1887

Paddock – iron window frame made by Philip Stiff 1887

Shortly after purchasing Brook House, Finnis laid out the Paddock, along the southern boundary, where seven houses were built. The window frames, which can still be seen, are the work of Philip & Herbert Stiff 1865-1895, local iron founders. On the opposite side of the Paddock a Girls’ High School was erected, this, at the time of writing, is part of K College.

Finnis retired as Alderman in 1889 but in 1892, as leader of the local Liberal Party, he decided to stand again for the council. As a mark of respect, he was not opposed in the November elections but within a week, he became ill. Thirteen days later, on 25 November, John Finnis died of peritonitis age 47 years old.

Brook House & Finnis Saw Mill 1890. The Electricity Station was built on the site of the Lawn Tennis Club, Park Street

Brook House & Finnis Saw Mill 1890. The Electricity Station was built on the site of the Lawn Tennis Club, Park Street

Brook House then came in possession of clergyman’s widow Mrs Martha Humphreys and her two daughters, Alice and Diana. They were particularly proud of a colony of rooks that, it was claimed, had been introduced when the estate had been part of the Maison Dieu in the days of King John. Since then the rooks have disappeared but Paul Holt, of the White Cliffs Countryside Project, tells me that there are some in the nearby Pencester Gardens.

Maison Dieu Gardens - The remains of the Electricity Works Gate

Maison Dieu Gardens – The remains of the Electricity Works Gate

In 1891 the Dover Electricity Company, whose Chairman was Sir William Crundall – Mayor thirteen times – acquired what had been municipal tennis courts on the south side of Park Street, backing on to the grounds of Brook House. A contemporary description states that, ‘the side wall was parallel with Park Street and is 32 foot high, divided into panels by pilasters with terracotta pediments. The corresponding side next to Brook House grounds is similar, while the end next to Maison Dieu road is plain, with a back entrance to workshops.’ On 8 April 1895, the electricity works started operating and in 1904 was taken over by Dover Corporation. The following year the offices, which had been near the front entrance of the electricity works, were moved to Maison Dieu House.

Mrs Humphreys’ died on 28 April 1900 but the daughters remained until the end of World War I, when they put the house up for sale. The council applied to the Ministry of Health, in 1919, for sanction to purchase the house, which was described as palatial, for a school and the land to enable the electricity works to be extended.

Approval was given and in 1920, the ladies sold the house to the Corporation for £5,000 although they did not move out until September 1921. Brook House was then converted by the Corporation into offices for the Town Clerk, the Borough Accountant and other departments. In addition, a flat was created for the caretakers, Mr and Mrs Bob Beer. In the gardens, on the Maison Dieu Road side of the house, municipal tennis courts were laid out. Brook House was officially opened on 1st April 1922 by which time the Town Clerk had become a full time official!

The old Brook House Clinic once the stables and coach house.

The old Brook House Clinic once the stables and coach house.

The stable block, adjacent to the north wall, was converted to provide facilities for the Medical Officer of Health with a Maternity and Infant Welfare centre. This was opened by the French Minister of Health on 9 August 1922. The adjoining coach house was adapted into a cookery centre. In 1924, the latter was converted into the Astor Dental Clinic for the treatment of poor people and elementary school children.

Finally, a path was laid from Maison Dieu House, past Biggin Hall, to the old stable block in Maison Dieu Gardens at the end of which gates were erected leading to the front entrance of the electricity station. It is one of  these gateposts that can still be seen.

The spring and summer of 1937 were particularly wet and along the hundred yard stretch of Maison Dieu Road near Brook House, motor cars were to be seen ploughing through water up to their axles on several occasions. On 20 July, the Surveyor presented a report to the Town Council in Committee, which stated that extensive and immediate steps were necessary to improve the surface water drainage system. He stated that the problem was due to the growth of the system of roads impervious to water. The cost was estimated as approaching £400,000! The report was put in the pending tray.

Brook House council owned hard tennis courts, 2shillings (10p) an hour

Brook House council owned hard tennis courts, 2shillings (10p) an hour

Brook House managed to survive relatively unscathed during World War II but due to neglect, by the end, repairs were desperately needed. Costing £11,671 the War Damage Commission contributed £926 15s 0d. As the repairs were being undertaken, Professor Patrick Abercrombie, a consultant hired by the Corporation, recommended that the building should be refurbished as the town’s museum.

The pre-war museum, housed in the upper part of the Market Hall, had been badly damaged during the war. However, after much deliberation the council applied to the Ministry of Health for a loan of £1,750. This was to enable them to convert Brook House for the use by the Borough Engineer’s department as Maison Dieu House, the Engineer’s previous quarters, was in a poor condition as the result of war damage and death watch beetle. In 1957, Brook House was extended at the back to provide more office accommodation at a cost of £9,883. This enabled the Borough Treasurer’s department to move from New Bridge House.

The 1972 Local Government Act led to the formation of Dover District Council (DDC) on 1 April 1974. Once again, consideration was given to Brook House being converted into a museum. However, the idea was put on hold until new district council offices were built and until such time Brook House was the home of DDC’s Finance Department. In 1979, work started on installing gas central heating costing £95,000.

The new DDC office complex at Whitfield, on the outskirts of Dover, was complete in the 1980s and the Finance Department moved in. Again it was proposed that Brook House should become a museum, or alternatively an art gallery or/and a civic centre.

Then, at  the DDC meeting of 27 January 1988, it was proposed to sell Brook House but at the same meeting, it was also suggested that it could be demolished and site laid out for car parking. The cost of the latter proposal was estimated at £20,000. At the time DDC were heavily involved in a tourism that centred on the £13.25m animatronics White Cliffs Experience, in the Market Square. This was expected to be a catalyst that would bring tourist flocking to Dover and thus the need for car parks.

Brook House - Following demolition - Internet

Brook House – Following demolition – Internet

To justify the demolition, the fact that the House had been built on a flood plain was used. Although, the House had defiantly stood the test of time, councillors and council officers were of one mind … demolition. Local businessman and former councillor, Paul Marklew, attempted to get the beautiful building listed and successfully secured this on Friday 15 July 1988. He drove from London to the DDC offices at Whitfield and although it was not yet 17.00hrs, the doors were locked against him.

At 05.00hrs on Saturday 16 July 1988, the beautiful building was bulldozed into oblivion! Public outrage ensued. Of interest, on 18 October 1988, at a full DDC meeting, councillors’ gave the White Cliffs Experience project their approval – the meeting lasted just 15-minutes. The White Cliffs Experience proved to be a financial disaster but the memory of the demolition of Brook House lives on.

  • Published:
  • Dover Mercury: 15, 22 August and 05 September 2013
Posted in Brook House – the Infamous Demolition, Brook House – the Infamous Demolition, Brook House – the Infamous Demolition, Brook House – the Infamous Demolition, Buildings, Maison Dieu Road, Wanton Destruction | Comments Off on Brook House – the Infamous Demolition

Kent Coalfield and Professor Abercrombie

'Red Letter Day' when the first commercial coal was raised at Snowdown Colliery 19.11.1912

‘Red Letter Day’ when the first commercial coal was raised at Snowdown Colliery 19.11.1912

As a result of a borehole sunk at the bottom of a shaft for a proposed Channel Tunnel, at the foot of Shakespeare cliff – Dover, coal was found in 1890. This was at a depth of 300 metres and exploration established 14 coal seams stretching across East Kent from Dover almost to Herne Bay. Start on the Shakespeare Colliery was made by Kent Coalfield Syndicate, promoted by Arthur Burr, in 1896 but the Colliery was abandoned in 1915.

At Snowdown, between the villages of Woolage and Nonington, the first sod was cut for a new pit on 28 February 1907. The first commercial bucketful of East Kent Coal was raised on 19 November 1912 and was proved that Kent coalfield had a future. However, there was a need for professional miners and this became acute following World War I.

Miners' Cottages at Woolage Village near Snowdown Colliery from The Kent Coalfields, its evolution and development by A E Richie 1919

Miners’ Cottages at Woolage Village near Snowdown Colliery from The Kent Coalfields, its evolution and development by A E Richie 1919

At the time the number of pit houses consisted of 47 cottages at Stonehall, 14 at Woolage and 12 at Snowdown all built by the Concession Company for colliery owner, Pearsons. Those at Snowdown were cottages were situated close to Snowdown Halt, leasehold for 99 years from 25th January 1915 with the total annual ground rent of £69.6s 0d. They were in an area of 17 acres and ten blocks of 2, 4 and 6 forming a square on one side of the main road.

Each of these cottages had three bedrooms, bathroom with hot & cold water supply, sitting room, living room and scullery fitted with sink again with hot and cold water. The outside toilets, with flush cistern, drained to cesspools, coal cellar and a small walled garden front and rear. The water was supplied from Margate Waterworks Company. Pearsons’ paid for repairs, rates and taxes and were considered a financial drain on the company’s resources. According to a report of the time, the cheaper cottages at Woolage, two blocks of four cottages and three pairs were of better value to the company. However, they were not so well build as those at Snowdown, there were traces of damp and the tenants reported that they were cold and draughty.

Kent Coalfield - Owners c 1924

Kent Coalfield – Owners c 1924

By the early 1920s, the economy had drifted into depression and the production of coal was under threat from cheaper imports from mainland Europe. On Monday 6th March 1922 despite this, representatives of the different council covering East Kent attended a Conference at the Guildhall in Canterbury for the purpose of organising a joint committee to prepare a skeleton Town Planning Scheme for the coalfield. The remit for it was to, ‘facilitate industrial development to the full, while at the same time safeguarding health and amenities.

Called the Joint Town Planning Committee they did not meet again until May 1923 but thereafter fairly frequently. Each time making unrealistic estimates of future industrial growth of the East Kent coal industry and the consequential influx of labour. This varied between 48,000 and 80,000 although the most accepted a figure of around 60,000 mineworkers to staff some twenty-five collieries, with additional workers required for the associated iron, steel and ship building industries.

Jack Elks Kent Coalminers Leader 1885-1950

Jack Elks Kent Coalminers Leader 1885-1950

Local mineworkers’ leader, Jack Elks, was sceptical over the estimated number of miners but recognised that what was being discussed promised better housing for the colliery workers. Member of Parliament, Frank Hodges (1887–1947), former General Secretary of the Miners’ Federation, was far more critical. Albeit, at a public meeting in December 1925 he told his audience that the coalfield had, ‘been the scene of many financial disasters, the happy hunting ground of the pioneer and the speculator.’ Concerning the miners, Hodges’ went on to say that they will, ‘come from the north, south, east and west. They’ll be told fabulous and wonderful stories of unprecedented prosperity. They will intermingle, mix and marry, and then there will be bred a community of Kent miners.’

With all this in mind, the Joint Town Planning Committee commissioned Professor Patrick Abercrombie in August 1925. Abercrombie was born 6th June 1879 in Ashton-upon-Mersey, the seventh of nine children. The family later moved to Cheshire and it was in Chester where the Professor’s career in town planning took off.

Professor Sir (Leslie) Patrick Abercrombie (1879-1957)

Professor Sir (Leslie) Patrick Abercrombie (1879-1957)

Following the 1926 coal strike there were three collieries,  Snowdown and Tilmanstone that had been producing coal since 1912 and 1913 respectively and Chislet that had been producing coal  from 1919. Betteshanger colliery had been sunk and started producing coal from 1927.  The output, at that time, ran counter to the national trend and the colliery owners adverts attracted mineworkers from all over the country (See Waiting Miner). This was already causing pressure on local amenities especially housing.

Abercrombie produced a Preliminary Survey to the Joint Town Planning Committee based on the prediction that there would be eighteen collieries producing a total output of 13,500,000 tons of coal per annum. Each pit, he predicted, would employ 2,500 miners with the associated iron and steel industry employing a further 7,000 workers. Some 17,500 workers would be employed in ‘auxiliary trades’. The  Professor stated that the nucleus of a family unit would be 4 persons and from these results he projected what the housing needs would be over the next 30 years. These would be fresh-built in specially created villages.

Tilden Smith, owner of Tilmanstone Colliery, notion of the future of Kent Coalfield

Tilden Smith, owner of Tilmanstone Colliery, notion of the future of Kent Coalfield

The Professor submitted his final report in 1928, which envisaged 7 new towns plus new villages all of which would be centred round 18 coalmines. The mines would be worked by electricity from a common generating plant and there would be a giant steel works near Dover and a port at Richborough. Two of the new towns would be the size of Folkestone, three as big as Canterbury and two similar in size to Deal. At the time one of the new towns and two of the new villages had been started. The villages were Elvington that had 640 houses and Chislet 350, while the town of Aylesham already had sufficient houses for a population of up to 2,000. Beginning with foundations for 402 homes 10 houses were completed each week

Dover contractors, Messrs G Lewis & Sons built many of the houses at Aylesham and the ‘new town’ already had a new elementary school, built by R J Barwick of Dover costing £25,000. River and District Co-operative Society were erecting two shops and Abercrombie expected that the requirement would be for 28,000 more houses within the following ten years.

Snowdown Colliery - Robinson Collection

Snowdown Colliery – Robinson Collection

At about the same time the Kent Mine owners advertised for 2,000 more miners, offering above national average wages. Many destitute out of work colliers, some of whom were blacklisted following the strike, walked from the Midland and Northern coalfields, including the author’s Grandfather, to find work.

Aylesham was the key to the whole development and was designed ‘scientifically‘. The site had been chosen due to its proximity of Snowdown pit and a proposed colliery at Adisham. Six hundred acres were secured and Abercrombie was determined from the outset to ensure the proper allocation of land to houses, shops, parks, recreation grounds etc. ‘long before their actual need is felt.’ It was visualised that Aylesham would have a population of 15,000.

Aylesham c1980s

Aylesham c1980s

The ‘scientific’ plan was a main broad avenue starting from the railway, with a shopping square halfway along, at the point where the roads from the collieries crossed the main axis. Churches and schools were to be focal points and a boulevard, the shape of which would be determined by the beech wood on the north side, would surround the whole. Trees were to be planted as wind protection even though fear had been expressed that such areas would become dumping grounds of household refuse.

There was a considerable amount of local fear expressed over the proposal, but Country Life magazine reassured East Kent residents saying that they, ‘should take courage from experience in a good many mining districts in other parts of the country, where natural beauty and general amenity have hardly suffered from the presence of collieries.’ In addition, there was likely to be an upward revision in the price of land.

Aylesham Central school opened in February 1930 with 350 pupils. Facilities at the new school were hailed as a guide to the future of Secondary education across the County. However, mainly because of the economic slump of the 1930s, Abercrombie’s grand scheme was never fully realised.

Besides town planning, Sir Patrick Abercrombie was closely involved with the founding of the Council for the Preservation of Rural England (CPRE) serving as its Honorary Secretary after its formation in December 1926. Sir Patrick died on 23 March 1957, by which time he had produced yet another East Kent plan – for post war Dover – but that is another story.

Published:

  • Dover Mercury: 15 September 2005
Posted in East Kent Villages, Kent Coal Field, Kent Coalfield and Professor Abercrombie, Kent Coalfield and Professor Abercrombie, Kent Coalfield and Professor Abercrombie, Local Government | Comments Off on Kent Coalfield and Professor Abercrombie

Harriet Quimby – the First Woman to Fly the Channel

Blériot Monument shortly after it was laid. Dover Library

Blériot Monument shortly after it was laid. Dover Library

A few days before Louis Blériot entered the history books as the first person to cross the English Channel in a heavier than air flying machine, Hubert Latham (1883-1914) had taken off from France. He had flown 8 miles before his engine failed. On the morning of Blériot’s epic flight, 25 July 1909, as it was windy, Latham’s advisors let him sleep. Nonetheless, there is a statue to Latham near Cap Blanc Nez, outside Calais. While on Northfall Meadow, Dover, there is a life size monument depicting Bleriot’s aeroplane.

Harriet Quimby c 1911. Giacinta Koontz

Harriet Quimby c 1911. Giacinta Koontz

Less than a year later, on 2 June 1910, Charles Rolls (1877-1910) made a return flight across the Channel. Leaving Dover at 18.30hrs was over Sangatte, France, at 19.15hrs and was back in Dover at 20.00hrs . Over 3,000 people witnessed the event, after which he was carried through Dover, shoulder high. A month later Charles Rolls lost his life in a flying accident at Bournemouth, a bust of him can be seen on Marine Parade.

On Tuesday 16 April 1912 the first woman, Harriet Quimby, (1875-1912), flew across the Channel. Many, including this author, feel that there should be a monument, a road name or even a plaque in Dover/Whitfield or Northfall Meadow to celebrate her achievement.

Harriet Quimby with her parents, September 1911. Giacinta Koontz

Harriet Quimby with her parents, September 1911. Giacinta Koontz

Harriet, a journalist, gained her pilot’s licence in August 1911, the first woman to do so in the US. By Christmas, she had decided to be the first woman to fly across the Channel and through contacts, managed to get a letter of introduction to Louis Blériot in Paris. On 1 March 1912, Harriet set sail for London on the Hamburg-American liner Amerika, and on arrival put her plan to the editor of the Daily Mirror.

Her next stop was Paris, where she placed an order with Blériot for a seventy-horse-power machine. At the same time, she persuaded Blériot to loan her a fifty-horse-power monoplane for the Channel crossing. Blériot agreed and suggested that the aeroplane should be first tried out from his airfield at Hardelot-Plage, about 25 miles (40 km) from Calais.

On arrival at Hardelot, Harriet was keen to undertake trials but the weather decided otherwise. The wind increased throughout the first day and on the second, it blew a gale. The weather showed no sign of abating but as the Daily Mirror had set a deadline, she ordered the monoplane should be shipped to Dover.

Concerned about keeping the whole venture a secret, the monoplane was delivered to an aerodrome she described as having, “a fine, smooth ground from which to make a good start. The famous Dover Castle stands on the cliffs, overlooking the Channel.  It points the way clearly to Calais. ” This was at Whitfield, outside of Dover.

Harriet stayed at the Lord Warden Hotel in Dover, where she met reporters from the Mirror. The following day, Sunday, was perfect for flying, “there was no wind. The sun was bright and warm. The air was so clear that by straining our eyes a little we could see the French coast dimly outlined across the channel.” However, Harriet’s mother had asked her never to fly on Sundays.

 Harriet on the day of her historic flight next to Blériot plane. Courtesy of Giacinta Bradley Koontz

Harriet on the day of her historic flight next to Blériot plane. Courtesy of Giacinta Bradley Koontz

Instead, she and aviator, Gustav Hamel, went to Whitfield to inspect the Blériot monoplane and for Gustav to show her how to use a compass. On arrival, a crowd of reporters and spectators greeted them, as rumour had spread that a woman was going to attempt to fly a solo Channel flight!

The following morning, Monday, Harriet, Hamel and the Mirror reporters all geared themselves up for the flight, but strong winds made it impossible.  However, by 03.30hrs on the Tuesday, the wind had eased. Dressed in a flying suit of her trademark, purple wool-back satin, she wore two pairs of silk combinations underneath. Over the apparel, she wore a long woollen coat, an ‘American raincoat’ all topped with sealskin stole.

Before going to Whitfield, Harriet stopped at the Blériot Monument on Northfall Meadow.  The Blériot monoplane had a 50hp Gnome engine and besides providing Harriet with the machine, Blériot had fitted a long pontoon within the fuselage to enable the plane to float until someone rescued her, if she came down in the Channel.

 Harriet before the epic flight of 16 April 1912 at the Blériot Monument. Giacinta Koontz

Harriet before the epic flight of 16 April 1912 at the Blériot Monument. Giacinta Koontz

At the aerodrome, Hamel undertook a trial run. Satisfied with the monoplane, Harriet climbed aboard and took off at 05.30hrs. Within thirty seconds, she had climbed fifteen hundred feet and flew over the Castle. There, Mirror reporters were waiting to take pictures of her flight.

As the early morning mist cleared, Harriet could see France on the horizon, however, part way across the Channel she ran into a bank of cloud, which obliged to use her compass in earnest! When she thought she was nearing Hardelot, Harriet dropped down below the cloud but unfortunately, she did not recognise where she was so landed on a beach.

Harriet being carried after her epic flight to France. Giacinta Koontz

Harriet being carried after her epic flight to France. Giacinta Koontz

Soon a crowd of fisher folk gathered, congratulating her. Then according to Harriet, one of the women “insisted upon serving me with a very welcome cup of hot tea, accompanied by bread and cheese. The tea was served in a cup fully six times as large as an ordinary teacup and was so old and quaint that I could not conceal my admiration of it.” The fisherwoman let Harriet keep the cup.

Page 8 of the Daily Mirror 17 April 1912. Giacinta Koontz

Page 8 of the Daily Mirror 17 April 1912. Giacinta Koontz

The feat had taken 59 minutes and Harriet had actually landed on Hardelot-Plage*! Then the media arrived and Harriet was assured of her entry into the history books as the first woman to fly the Channel. Even though the Mirror did give the flight coverage but it was not on the front page.

On 14 April the Titanic tragically hit an iceberg off the coast of Newfoundland so although Harriet had made world history her story was relegated to the inside pages. Harriet’s account of her epic journey was published in Fly Magazine of 12 July 1912 but by then Harriet was dead, having been denied the recognition, as the first woman aviator to fly across the Channel, she deserved.

Harriet Quimby first woman to fly across the Channel 16.04.1912. Giacinta Koontz

Harriet Quimby first woman to fly across the Channel 16.04.1912. Giacinta Koontz

Following the Channel crossing Harriet returned to the US, where she was given a tumultuous welcome and the outfit she wore during the flight was copied by the fashion conscious. However, it was flying that Harriet loved and on 1 July she was at the controls of her new 70hp Blériot at Quincy near Boston, Massachusetts. Tragically, the engine failed and Harriet, along with her manager, Leo Stevens, fell to their deaths. Harriet was 37 years old.

Less than a year later, on 2 June 1910, Charles Rolls (1877-1910) made a return flight across the Channel. Leaving Dover at 18.30hrs was over Sangatte, France, at 19.15hrs and was back in Dover at 20.00hrs. Over 3,000 people witnessed the event, after which he was carried through Dover, shoulder high. A month later Charles Rolls lost his life in a flying accident at Bournemouth, a bust of him can be seen on Marine Parade. Finally, at the Ramada Hotel, Whitfield there is a plaque commemorating the Harriet Quimby flight.

Harriet Quimby Scrap book by Giacinta Koontz 2011

Harriet Quimby Scrap book by Giacinta Koontz 2011

* Recent research suggests that Harriet landed at Equihen, Pas de Calais.

Published:

  • Dover Mercury: 30 July 2009
  • Dover Society Magazine: August 2011

Further Reading:

  • The Harriet Quimby Scrapbook by Goacinta Bradley Koontz (2011): Running Iron Publications Arizona US
  • For more information on Harriet Quimby:  http://www.harrietquimby.org
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King John and Dover

 King John Window in the Council Chamber, Maison Dieu. Alan Sencicle.

King John Window in the Council Chamber, Maison Dieu. Alan Sencicle.

King John (1199-1216) is particularly remembered as being forced to sign the Magna Carta by the Barons of England on the 15 June 1215. In reality, the King did not sign it but attached his seal which confirmed his endorsement.  Yet in Dover, until the late Victorian local historians bent to the prevailing national view, the King was held in high esteem. Indeed,  21 March 2013 was the date celebrated as this was the anniversary of John summoning his forces to Dover and three days later paying homage to the Pope’s Legate in or near the town. For centuries this was a seen as a positive significant event that put Dover firmly on the map of the nation’s history. Shortly after John died, Hubert de Burgh (1160-1243) carried out his wishes for which Dover was given the accolade, ‘Key to the Gate of England.

John was the youngest of five sons of the strong willed Henry II (1154–1189) and his equally formidable wife, Eleanor of Aquitaine (circa 1122–1204). Henry started the building of the magnificent Dover Castle to impress visitors to his court that England was the power base for the Angevin Empire that Henry had pulled together. Besides England, his empire included the eastern half of Ireland and much of the western part of France.

As was the custom in those days, it was expected that on Henry’s death the empire would be divided between his sons. However, as the youngest, John was not expected to inherit much. Indeed, his father jokingly called him ‘Lackland’.

Henry II - Worcester Cathedral Cloisters

Henry II – Worcester Cathedral Cloisters

John was born on Christmas Eve 1166 by which time his eldest brother, William (1153-1156), was dead. The second eldest, Henry the Younger (1155-1183) was the heir apparent and was given the titular title King of England in 1170. John, his brother Richard (1157-1199) and their mother, Eleanor, were unhappy over this and they organised a revolt against Henry in 1183. During the campaign, Henry the Younger contracted dysentery and died.

The third brother in line, Geoffrey (1158-1186) was fond of jousting and died in 1186 following a tournament. Thus, when Henry II died in 1189 only Richard and John remained of the legitimate sons, along with a grandson, Arthur (1187-1203), son of Geoffrey.

Dover Castle

Dover Castle

Richard, as the eldest ascended the throne, but he had previously declared his intention of joining the Third Crusade to which he still felt committed. On 1 December 1189, he signed a new Charter for Dover and two weeks later embarked for the Holy Land. His army consisted of 4,000 men-at-arms, 4,000 foot-soldiers, and a fleet of 100 ships, which he paid for by selling official posts to the highest bidders. The most senior civil post was that of Chancellor, who would also act as Regent while the King was away. William Longchamp (d 1197), from Normandy, whose sister, Richeut, had married the Captain of Dover Castle, paid £3,000 for the privilege. Longchamp was also appointed Bishop of Ely and the Pope’s legate.

The country’s leading Barons resented Longchamp’s appointment, which enabled John to successfully mount a challenge. In Dover, Longchamp had already raised a great deal of hostility with regard to the treatment of Henry II’s illegitimate son, Geoffrey Plantagenet (circa 1152-1212), Archbishop of York. When the Archbishop arrived in the town from France, Longchamp’s brother-in-law ordered his arrest. Geoffrey sought asylum in Dover Priory but Longchamp’s men dragged him to Dover Castle. Soon after John gained power, Geoffrey returned to France and Longchamp tried to escape to France dressed as woman.

While waiting for a ship on Dover beach, Longchamp was approached by a fisherman who tried to have his way with Longchamp; that is, until he realised Longchamp was a man! The fisherman’s yells attracted a large crowd and when it was realised that it was Longchamp, he was dragged through the town in the same way as Geoffrey had been. Their stories are told in this author’s book, Haunted Dover.

Richard, in the meantime, was earning the accolade ‘Lionheart in the Crusade, but just before Christmas 1192 the King was captured near Vienna and held hostage by Leopold V, Duke of Austria. Longchamp negotiated a ransom payment of 100,000 marks and Richard was freed on 4 February 1194. The pair returned to England through Sandwich, but Longchamp never regained any of his previous powers and died in France in 1197.

Hit by a crossbow arrow Richard died on 6 April 1199, John ascended the throne with the support of his mother, Eleanor, although Arthur laid claim. For much of Richard’s reign disputes over the Angevin Empire had drained the coffers, the main protagonist being Philip II of France (1180-1223). John made a compact with Philip in 1200, which brought two years of peace and although much maligned even today, John (1199-1216) still faced formidable opposition from the religious and baronial establishments in England. The latter were divided into two separate factions, one side did recognise John as King by England and Normandy but a rival fraction supported the claim of his nephew Arthur. To aid his cause, Arthur held his grandmother hostage but John’s forces rescued Eleanor. He also took Arthur prisoner but in the meantime lost Normandy to France.

Hubert de Burg - Kingsford Window, Stone Hall, Maison Dieu. Alan Sencicle.

Hubert de Burg – Kingsford Window, Stone Hall, Maison Dieu. Alan Sencicle.

Under the guard of Hubert de Burgh and then Sir William de Braose (1140/1150-1211) Arthur disappeared about April 1203 believed murdered. According to William Shakespeare (1564-1616), de Burgh had his eyes burnt out. At about the time of Arthur’s disappearance, de Burgh was appointed Constable of Dover Castle, a post he held until 1232, except for occasional short periods. In 1203, de Burgh, with John’s blessing, founded the Maison Dieu as a hospital for pilgrims from the Continent. An increasing number were making their way to Thomas Becket’s (circa 1118-1170) shrine at Canterbury Cathedral.  Of note, John’s father, Henry II, was the cause of Becket’s death. 

The Barons were united in one respect, they wanted full autonomy over their individual estates, castles and armies but John, in order to try and augment the country’s depleted coffers, increased taxation. In response, they called on  Philip of France to invade England in the belief that he would give them the autonomy they desired. John called for the help of the Cinque Ports Fleet and they took their role seriously, for not only did they sink many French ships and pillaged French towns on the pretext that the percentage of the bounty given to the King helped to increase England’s defences. This was used to finish the work that his father had started on the fortifications of  Dovers Castle by completing the Keep, most of the bailey and some of the curtain wall. Regardless of the share of booty that the Portsmen were giving to John, the Castle and other fortifications required more money and John was obliged to raise of taxes. Of note, as a by-product, helped to increase Dover’s wealth.

Maison Dieu - 1830

Maison Dieu – 1830

Eleanor, John’s main ally, died in April 1204 and the following year the Archbishop of Canterbury died. Traditionally, the King made the appointments but successive popes had increasingly exerted their power for that right. Nonetheless, John appointed one of his supporters, the Bishop of Norwich, while Pope Innocent III’s (1198-1216) stated preference was Stephen Langton (1150-1228), whom he consecrated in June 1207. John refused to accept the appointment resulting in an altercation. This came to a head in November 1209 and John was excommunicated. .

Following the excommunication it was expected by the Pope, Philip of France and John’s enemies among the English Barons that his subjects would rise up and overthrow John, but this did not happen. The Pope, who officially supported Philip’s activities that included the invasion of England, recognised that a compromise would be diplomatic and so relaxed many of the strictures he had imposed. These included allowing monastic communities to celebrate mass in private and at burials. In return, in November 1212 John informed Innocent III that he would accept the Pope’s terms that he had previously refused.

 Cinque Port ship- c13th Century

Cinque Port ship- c13th Century

During this time John had been building up his maritime resources appointing William of Wrotham (d 1217) Keeper of the Galleys in 1209. Wrotham brought together the Cinque Ports Fleet with pressed merchant vessels to effectively create a Royal Navy. Changes in ship design were instigated including removable forecastles during combat. To pay for these and other expenses, John introduced judicial reforms. These had a lasting, positive, impact on the English common law system but, at the time, caused a great deal of ill feeling by the country’s powerful Barons.

Towards the end of 1212, John set up camp with 60,000 men on Barham Downs. Then, on 21 March 1213, he summoned his Barons and Military tenants to the Maison Dieu and three days later he met Pandulph Varroaccio (d1226), the papal legate and a known ecclesiastical politician, at the Knights Templar Church in Temple Ewell.

A second meeting with Pandulph was arranged and this took place on the eve of Ascension Day (On a Thursday, the fortieth day of Easter) 1213. The meeting took place at the Knights Templars Preceptory, high on the hill, close to Temple Farm on the east side of Temple Ewell. There, John paid homage to the Pope and issued a Charter, witnessed by several leading Barons. In it, the King stated that he acknowledged Pope Innocent III as his overlord for the whole kingdoms of England and Ireland and promised to pay a tribute of 1,000 marks a year. John, no doubt, saw this as a small price to pay to win the Pope’s allegiance if Philip of France decided to invade.

Round Church, Braddon, Western Heights. Dover Museum

Round Church, Braddon, Western Heights. Dover Museum

Although recent researchers discount the Round Chapel at Braddon on Western Heights as the venue, according to the Charter, the location was ‘apud domum militum Templi juxta Doveram.’ This was interpreted by the antiquarian, William Lambarde (1536–1601) and subsequent historians as the Templar Church on Dover’s Western Heights. Translation of the location reads, ‘at the home of the Temple near Dover’ and in all probability this is the Knights Templars Preceptory at Temple Ewell.

In the meantime, Philip’s son, Dauphin Louis (1187-1226 later Louis VIII 1223-1226), invaded Flanders. This was a precursor to invading England and the Dauphin claiming the throne – he was married to a granddaughter of Henry II. John responded with his new navy and the French were routed at the Battle of Damme (30-31 May 1213). Philip and Louis withdrew.

Faversham Magna Carta. AS 2015

Faversham Magna Carta. AS 2015

However, unrest, particularly in the north of England and Wales led to a revolt against John in 1212. Although put down, discontent continued. On the Continent, at the battle of Bouvines on 27 July 1214, John was defeated; this acted as a catalyst for the Barons to rebel. A peace treaty was agreed by John attaching his seal to the Magna Carta on 15 June 1215. At the same time, de Burgh was appointed the Chief Justicular of England. In 1630, a copy of the Magna Carta was found at the Castle that was attributed as de Burgh’s copy.

Neither John or the Barons kept their promises and civil war broke out with the Barons inviting Louis to take the throne. A storm had wrecked the Cinque Ports Fleet so John was forced to watch as the usurper landed at Dover on 14 May 1216, virtually unopposed. The King left for Winchester leaving de Burgh and 140 men to defend the now well-fortified Dover Castle.

Louis and his army marched to London, where the Barons welcomed him and most of Southern England fell to Louis, but Dover people remained resolute. The Dauphin returned, taking the Mayor – Solomon de Dovre – and some Jurats hostage and burning the town knowing that once he had taken Dover Castle, the country was his.

 Kings Gate with the North Ramparts behind, from the Keep, Dover Castle

Kings Gate with the North Ramparts behind, from the Keep, Dover Castle

The French soldiers camped in the area of today’s Laureston Place, known as Uphill and a siege ensued. Almost starving, de Burgh and his men still held out fighting off the Dauphin’s men they tried to undermine the Castle’s North Rampart Walls in order to gain entry, but failed. Famously, de Burgh was reported as saying: ‘I will not surrender; as long as I draw breath I will never resign to French aliens this Castle, which is the very key to the gate of England!’ Louis called a truce on 19 October 1216, when, so the story goes, John de Pencester – after whom Pencester Gardens were named – arrived with reinforcements. However, King John, had contracted dysentery, died during the night of 18-19 October and was buried in Worcester Cathedral.

Tomb of King John, Worcester Cathedral

Tomb of King John, Worcester Cathedral

The French, with a massive contingent of re-enforcements set sail to invade England. Secretly leaving the Castle in the hands of his deputy, de Burgh joined the Portsmen and set sail with the Cinque Ports Fleet to take the armada on. At the Battle of Dover on 24 August 1217 the Cinque Ports Fleet, under the command of Hubert de Burgh, routed the French Navy and prevented the invasion of England! Throughout all of John’s troubles, Dover and de Burgh remained loyal to him and to his successor, the infant Henry III (1216-1272). In return, they left Dover with a heritage to be proud of. Yet local historians, like the national ones, vilify King John?!

  • Published:
  • Dover Mercury: 21 & 28 March 2013
Posted in King John and Dover, Royalty | Comments Off on King John and Dover

William Burgess – Artist

William Burgess of Stembrook. Dover Society Plaque

William Burgess of Stembrook. Dover Society Plaque

High up on a wall near the corner of Stembrook and Castle Street, is a Dover Society plaque dedicated to Dover artist William Burgess (1805-1861). Not to be confused with William Burges, (1827–1881), one of the architects of the former Town Hall refurbishment’s and extensions, this William is, arguably, Dover’s greatest painter.

William was born in Canterbury about 1805. From an early age, he was encouraged by his uncle to draw. The uncle was in the coach building business in Orange Street, in that city and he wanted to utilise his nephew’s prodigious talent to help his business. After serving an apprenticeship with his uncle, William, accompanied by his close friend, fellow artist, Thomas Sydney Cooper, set off to travel around Europe.

 William Burgess - Artist & teacher. Trade Directory 1850

William Burgess – Artist & teacher. Trade Directory 1850

To fund their tour they planned to sell their work but were not very successful William returned to England. Sydney Cooper, as he is better known, remained and eventually became a famous artist. As for William, he settled in Dover in 1828 and married Harriet, a young lady from Deal. They settled first in a tiny cottage in Woolcomber Street before eventually moving to 14 Stembrook with a door for customers at 69 Castle Street.

Hoping for commissions in drawing and painting picturesque landscapes of Dover, William eked out a living giving art lessons. Some of his work was exhibited at the Royal Academy and by the Royal Society of British Artists. One of his earliest pieces is held by Dover Museum and is pencil sketch of St Martin-le-Grand dated 1829.

William Burgess - Custom House Quay, Lythograph 1844

William Burgess – Custom House Quay, Lythograph 1844

In 1844, William opened the then state-of-the-arts Cosmorama, using 14 Stembrook as the entrance. He placed his sketches and paintings of Dover in black frames behind large convex lenses. The frames were specially constructed to prevent light, other than that which was illuminating the picture, to enter. The illuminating lamp was placed on the top of the frame so the onlooker would see the picture as if being viewed through a window.

 William Burgess - Militia on Western Heights. Dover Harbour Board

William Burgess – Militia on Western Heights. Dover Harbour Board

The attraction proved very popular, particularly to the town’s wealthy visitors, who also bought William’s paintings and lithograph prints. The prints of his paintings of Shakespeare Cliff in the Cosmorama were particularly popular such that it is the alley next to his house was renamed Shakespeare Place!

As time passed the demand for William’s services as teacher increased along with the number of commissions for his work. He also developed his Cosmorama shows into stories, such as the Seige of Dover Castle by Richard Dawkes. Possibly, to accommodate the expansion of his business, he and Harriet moved to 26 High Street in what was then the village of Charlton.

William Burgess - The funeral of Sergeant Monger. Dover Museum

William Burgess – The funeral of Sergeant Monger. Dover Museum

On 9 August 1860, Lieutenant George Thompson and Sergeant John Monger were killed in a shooting accident at Archcliffe Fort.  In his painting, William graphically captured the military cortege of Sergeant Monger from South Front Military Hospital, Western Heights. The lithograph print was his best seller and as it was dedicated to the officers and men of the Cinque Ports and other Volunteer Corps along with the Royal Artillery, the Royal Engineers, the 60th Rifles, and the 87th Regiment, all of whom assisted at the procession. This is now in the possession of Dover Museum.

St Martin-le-Grand by William Burgess. Dover Museum

St Martin-le-Grand by William Burgess. Dover Museum

William died at the early age of 55 on 30 July 1861. His widow, Harriet, remarried Parker Ayres, a builder. Ayres laid out Norman and Saxon Streets in 1846, on land then called Priory Meadows that had once been part of the Dover Priory estate. Harriet died on 7 August 1884 and was interred in St Peter and Paul Churchyard, Charlton.

In 2012 Dover Museum acquired an historic collection of artworks, engravings, lithographs, photo’s prints, watercolours and sketches depicting Dover from the early 1720s to 1904. The money came from the Victoria and Albert purchase grant fund plus a donation from a local benefactor. The collection included three watercolours and two pencil sketches by the town’s most important artist – William Burgess.

Published:

  • Dover Mercury:  22 September 2011
Posted in Burgess William - Artist, People, William Burgess - Artist | Comments Off on William Burgess – Artist